Ok, so I’m no Shakespeare, but I do wonder about whether or not I should be using a swivel with a clip.

I’ve been using swivel clips for years. For me, someone with limited resources and a wife that doesn’t understand having multiple rod and reels at the ready, I cannot carry 10 rods with different lures for different situations. A swivel clip is easy and convenient and allows me to try a bunch of different lures quickly.

However, angler friends (who are better fishermen than I) tell me that you can get a much more realistic action by tying a lure on the line directly. This, of course, isn’t so important with crankbaits or spinnerbaits, but I’m a heavy user of the fluke which requires twitching to simulate a wounded baitfish.

In all my years of using swivels, I’ve never had any fail on me–until recently. The first set fell apart so the clip didn’t clip. After losing a spinnerbait because of it, I quickly disposed of those and bought a new set. I brought those with me on my trip to the Gunflint Trail and two of them opened up during a fight with a fish and I lost my lure–and the fish. Needless to say, I stopped using those as well.

For the rest of my trip, I ended up using my father-in-law’s method of quick lure switching which is to tie a loop at the end of the line. You thread the line through the eye of the lure as if there is no loop, open up the loop, pull the lure through the loop, and tighten. This is an effective way to simulate a direct tie-on and be able to switch lures fairly quickly.

However, with the braid I use, the line tightens pretty well and it can be difficult to loosen the loop at the eye to switch lures. I don’t know if mono has the same problem. You also have to create a fairly large loop to account for larger lures and it can open up and get tangled in treble hooks.

Tying a lure directly is not that big of a deal, I suppose, but it takes time and uses up expensive line. Especially since I have some of my rods rigged up with a 7-9 ft flourocarbon leader. The 9 ft can get shortened pretty quickly if I tied on every time I switched.

So I pose the question to avid anglers out there. Do you use a swivel? Or do you tie on directly? What are the advantages and disadvantages of each? Do you find that you catch less fish when using a swivel? Please leave a comment with your experience. Thank you in advance for your advice.

Related posts:

1. Rigging The Magic Lure
2. Walleye 101 – The Lindy Rig

I don’t think any of us would wantonly throw a tangle of fishing line in the water. But what we probably don’t think about is when we get a line caught in a tree, or stuck on a log. Instead of making an effort to get the lure unstuck, it’s much easier to just cut the line and retie. However, leaving a line dangling can be a danger to wildlife, as Jim’s story illustrates.

I’ve been known to throw a stray cast once in a while, but I always go after my lures–usually for monetary reasons rather than conservationist ones (I’ve been married to my Norwegian wife too long and have picked up her family’s frugal sentiments). But now I’m doubly glad I do.

So the next time you get hung up in a tree or a drowned log, please make a good faith effort to get your lure back. You’ll be doing the local wildlife a favor. And be saving a few bucks to boot.

Read Jim’s post: Appreciate the Hazards of Discarded Fishing Line

Related posts:

1. Keeping a Fishing Log

If you’ve done any amount of fishing, you know the technique to use if a hook goes into your skin beyond the barb: push it through past the barb, cut it off with a pair of pliers, then pull the hook out.

However, Billy Chapman of Angler’s Inn International did a great video to show an alternative method for removing hooks.

I’m skeptical about whether Mr. Chapman’s claim of this method being pain free is true, but it certainly appears to be effective. I might want to try it on a chicken breast or something similar before actually using it out in the field. Anyone ever used this technique?

View the video on YouTube if you don’t see the embedded video below.

Related posts:

1. Success with a New Technique

The WalleyeGuy wrote a great intro to lindy rigs for his guest post on my blog, so pay close attention. And then visit his site for more great information. Stay tuned to him because I’ll have a guest post for him shortly as well. It will be more of a story, so it won’t be as useful, but hopefully entertaining. Enjoy.

I’ve been reading this blog for a while and love the fact that MN Angler enjoys going out and chasing all different species of fish. The simple joy of catching fish, no matter what flavor, is one of the classic outdoor experiences. I’ve fished nearly all of my life and have caught just about every species of fish Minnesota lakes have to offer. When I was younger I had a thing for huge northerns. Every trip was a test to see if we could hook a monster. But my passion turned to walleyes nearly 20 years ago when I moved north and started learning what quality walleye fishing was really like. Like many others who chase the Minnesota state fish, I started with the most versatile walleye weapon around… the Lindy Rig.

The beauty of the Lindy rig is its simplicity. The rig allows bait to be presented naturally, allowing it to swim/move as it would when traveling untethered. It also allows the fish to take the bait without feeling any real resistance. The other great thing about the Lindy rig is that, in its simplest configuration, it can be tied up using three simple components.

Tying Up A Rig

I sketched the diagram above to give you a basic idea of how to put together a Lindy rig. There are different varieties of sinkers to use (like the “no-snag” banana shaped sinkers), but the walking sinker is the original design. You should have a variety from 1/4 ounce to 1/2 ounce. The deeper you fish, the heavier you probably want to go to get a good feel for the bottom while you are moving. The swivel is just a basic barrel swivel. The Lindy kits will often come with a snap swivel or a swivel that allows you to quickly hook a snell on without tying a knot (great when you need to experiment with different snell lengths). I prefer the basic swivel and tie my snell directly. I’m too paranoid about multiple points of failure, but the quick-snap is definitely more efficient. There are a variety of hooks available for this type of rig each designed for a different type of bait, but hooks in the 2-4 range are good. When hooking your bait, the object is to hook it in a way that allows the bait to move as naturally as possible. Minnows should be hooked just behind the lips from underneath to allow the minnow to swim. A leech should be hooked once through the sucker to allow it to fully extend and move naturally through the water. A crawler should also be hooked once. You can either buy a syringe to inflate the crawler to keep it up off of the bottom, or you can buy floater hooks that are encased in bouyant material to accomplish the same task. Many fishermen will break a crawler in half to keep a walleye from “short-biting”. I would suggest you start with a whole crawler, and if the fish are taking the bait off short of the hook, then start breaking them up.

The length of your snell completely depends upon the presentation method and mood/position of the fish. Early this season friends were fishing with 6 foot snells and moving very slowly (.5 mph or so) to allow the leech to swim naturally and attract finicky fish… with great results. We tried this same length on another lake and could not entice a bite. Then we switched to a 3 foot snell and immediately started catching walleyes. I think that starting with a 3-4 foot snell is a good average. Keep your speed on the slower side (1 mph or less) to start and then experiment from there. Sometimes fast moving bait will trigger a strike from a walleye in neutral or negative mode. Sometimes the bait needs to be going extra-slow to entice a finicky fish. Walleye are generally bottom-oriented, so you want to focus your efforts near the bottom. Instead of worrying about suspended fish, simply experiment with different depths (hopefully you have electronics that will help you mark fish as you move so you have an idea what depth the fish are in). When we are not sure, we will work likely structure by starting shallow and moving out to deeper water, then back in until we start to get bites. Points, sunken islands or humps, rock piles, and patches of cabbage are great places to start your search. When you are fishing shallow, pay out plenty of line so that the bait is far away from the boat. This will lessen the chance of the boat spooking the fish. The deeper you go, the less you have to worry about this.

When fishing Lindy rigs I use spinning reels and keep the bail open while I am trolling with the line hooked in my pointer finger. This combined with the sensitivity of the rod I use allows me to feel the tell-tale “whack” when a fish hits the bait. The second I feel that “whack”, I let go of the line and let line spool off of the reel. The more finicky the fish, the more line I let out to allow the fish time to take the bait. When I start to reel and take up the slack I will be very careful to try and feel for the weight of the fish on the line. As soon as I feel that weight, I set the hook hard and never let the line go slack as I reel in the fish. I’ve seen too many nice fish make it all the way to the side of the boat only to throw the hook when the person holding the rod let the tension out of the line. My son saved my tail one night dipping the net three feet under to scoop up a walleye I fell asleep on. He never hesitates to remind me.

The most important thing is to practice. When you are in an area that you know holds walleyes, you need to have the patience to try different methods. This includes changing speeds, changing snell length, and changing bait. I’ve seen everything from small leeches to 8 inch red tails fished on a Lindy rig. It’s a time-tested method that should work in wide variety of fishing conditions. Give it a shot the next time you are chasing walleyes.

I write about tactics like this and my own personal fishing experiences on my WalleyeGuy blog. Pay me a visit if you would like more information on walleye fishing.

The WalleyeGuy

Related posts:

1. First Walleye of 2010
2. Walleye Frenzy
3. Best Walleye Fishing Day Ever
4. Ice Walleye Sightings
5. Fishing 101 – Where to Find Fish

and

Too often we anglers jump on the latest lure or technology that the pros are using to make millions of dollars on the tournament scene. But if you’re not familiar with the lure or the technology, you might as well be throwing an empty hook into a swamp.

I’ve been criticized over the years for being one dimensional because I fish with a Zoom super fluke 90% of the time. But why wouldn’t I? I can consistently catch fish on it. I know how to fish it. And I know what it feels like when a fish hits it.

With that said, however, I am interested in trying out new lures and new techniques so when the bite gets tough on a super fluke, I have something else to fall back on. That’s why it’s great to see such a helpful blogging community who is willing to give advice when I ask for it.

We’re all here to learn something new. But don’t abandon what you know for the next greatest thing. Just because it works for one guy doesn’t mean it will work for you in your lake under your conditions. Take the time to understand the best places and situations for new lures and techniques before spending your hard earned money. Otherwise, it will be just another lure taking up space in your tackle box.

That reminds me. I need to open that eBay account…

Related posts:

1. Review: Zoom® Super Fluke®
2. To Swivel or Not to Swivel

As kids, all of us are taught that we need to set the hook as soon as you feel a fish bite (or see the bobber go under). This mainly comes from fishing for pan fish because they are able to grab a worm or piece of corn off the hook in a split second.

For years now, I’ve been fishing with texas rigged plastics. With this type of rigging, if you set the hook as soon as you feel a bite, all you’ll catch is disappointment. Some people will tell you to wait 2 seconds after you feel a hit. But I prefer a different method.

This could be a half a second, or it could be up to 3 seconds, even more. What happens is that when you feel a fish strike, all it’s doing is sucking the lure into its mouth. But until it closes its mouth, trying to set the hook will just yank the lure back out. Waiting until you feel the weight of the fish on your line will guarantee that the fish has taken hold and you can get a good hook set.

Waiting these extra few seconds will also give you a chance to make sure your line is taut for a better hook set. You can point your rod tip toward the fish, reel up, and then sweep your rod to set the hook. Sometimes the line goes a little slack if you lure is falling, or the fish hit your lure coming toward you. The extra time you take to reel the line taut will improve your hook set.

Anglerwise posted a good video about hook sets a few weeks ago. It underscores the wait-for-the-weight philosophy and how using a sweeping motion rather than a power jerk will help you increase your chances of landing your lunker.

While I learned this method for texas rigged baits, I now use it for most every lure I cast. It has taught me to be more patient and to make sure I get a high percentage hook set. In fact, on my last outing, I would have missed two Northern Pike had I not waited to feel the fish on the line.

I tend to fish for more aggressive fish, so this method works well. It might not be appropriate for panfish or walleye where the bite is lighter. Walleye, especially, can be harder to catch with this method because they tend to drop bait as soon as they feel something wrong. Panfish are just too lightning quick.

So next time you’re fishing and feel a bite. Take a breath, wait for the weight, then sweep your rod. You won’t regret it.

Related posts:

1. The Magic Lure
2. Fishing a Plastic Worm or Jig
3. Walleye 101 – The Lindy Rig

Before I took it out to water, I practiced in my backyard a few times. It took me a few casts to get used to my new rod, let alone the reel, but got the hang of it without too much trouble. Being used to a spinning reel, the balance of the whole setup took some getting used to. The reel being on top threw me off a bit. But soon I was casting about 40 ft with a hook buried in my favorite lure as a casting plug. The magnetic brake was turned up all the way.

The first time I took it to a lake, I had no problem casting with my right hand and switching hands to reel. As my commenters pointed out, it was very natural. However, what didn’t feel natural was twitching the rod with my left hand. With spinning reels, I twitch flukes with my right hand. It feels natural controlling the lure with my dominant hand. It was awkward to twitch with my left.

I then took it out to my dad’s lake over Memorial Weekend. As I used the reel more, I began to feel more comfortable with left-hand twitching. But then I started noticing the length of the rod butt, which is a bit longer than my spinning rods. I’m sure I’ll get used to that as well.

I’ve been doing pretty well with the reel so far. I haven’t had any major backlashes since I’ve started casting into water. I just got a few minor ones and that was mainly because I was casting after dusk when I couldn’t see my lure hit the water. I was comfortable enough to turn the magnetic brake down to 50% and was getting some pretty good distance.

If you’re new to baitcasters, tuning the baitcaster to the lure is critical to the learning process. I would recommend sticking with one lure for the first bunch of times you use your reel to get used to it. Fiddling with different lures and having to tweak settings just complicates things. I’m now to the point where I’ll start trying new lures. I attached my baitcaster to my new St. Croix Premier and am anxious to test out its sensitivity with bottom bouncing a worm or jig and pig.

If you’re used to left-handed spinning gear, a right-handed baitcaster will take some getting used to. I’ll be sticking with the right-handed version for now, but my next one might be a left-handed one, just to see if I like to stick with using my right hand to move the lure through the water.

Related posts:

1. Left-handed or Right-handed Baitcaster?
2. Need Advice on Baitcast Reels
3. To Swivel or Not to Swivel

I’ve never fished a jig and pig, but I’ve heard the strike with that technique is a soft tick that less experienced anglers could miss as a strike. So I’m wondering if that’s the case with a texas rigged plastic worm as well.

If you’ve read any of my posts from last year, you know that my lure of choice is a Zoom super fluke. You can usually tell when a fish hits it and then you wait to feel the weight of the fish before setting the hook. Occasionally, the strike is more of increased resistance than a hit you can feel, but you can usually tell if a fish has a hold of it. I’m unclear if this is the case with a plastic worm.

I should point out that I was using a Shimano Voltaeus medium action fast rod. I should have pulled out my new St. Croix Premier to see if I could feel the bottom and detect bites more easily. I also forgot to bring out my jigs that I bought over the winter. It would have been fun to try them out in that spot.

So I defer to you more experienced anglers that have fished texas rigged plastic worms as well as jig and pigs. I plan to fish both types of lures this year, but have little or no experience with them. What does the strike feel like? Will I be able to feel the weight of the fish before setting the hook? Do you have any tips on how to fish them and how to detect a strike? Please leave a comment so I can benefit from your experience. Thanx!

Related posts:

1. Wait for the Weight
2. Rigging The Magic Lure
3. New Lake
4. The Magic Lure
5. Keeping a Fishing Log

With the Minnesota Fishing Opener just hours away, we all hope to catch that lunker that will make our season. And when we do, we’ll want to get a picture of it. Making sure you get a good picture is a lot easier these days than in the days of film, but there are some basic tips that can make sure the shot is a good one.

I came across a cool article that gives tips on how to take great photos of fish from a kayak. A lot of the tips were great for taking fish photos in general. I’ll summarize the more useful ones here. Read the original article if you want to read all of them.

• The sun should be at the photographer’s back. That way the face of the subject will be lit by natural light.
• ALWAYS use a fill flash to eliminate shadows that may be cast by face features or items like hats, even on sunny days.
• Subjects should take off their sunglasses.
• If you plan to release the fish, keep it in the water as long as possible and take it out only to take the pictures. This will also make the fish glimmer in the sunlight and show off its color.
• Hold larger fish horizontal. Gravity could damage internal organs if held vertically. Hold the head a little higher than the tail.
• Take 5 or more pictures in sequence a few seconds apart. This will prevent closed eyes or sleepy looking eyes. Delete those you don’t want. Use the camera’s auto shutter feature if it has one.
• Keep an eye on the background so you don’t have poles sticking out of the subjects’s head or other such problems.
• Make sure you have enough memory in your camera before you leave. Empty your card when you get home so you’re ready for your next trip.
• Hold the fish as close to the camera as possible to make it look as big as possible.

Ok, that last bullet was a joke, but a lot of fisherman like to do it. The others are good guidelines to keep in mind to get the best picture possible of your lunker. Good luck on opening day, and happy picture taking!

Related posts:

1. Tips and Tricks
2. Think Like A Fish
3. Where to Find Fish on Windy Days
4. Fishing 101 – Where to Find Fish

• Fish will always look for three things: Food, Security, and Comfort. Find those three things, and you will find fish.
• Find moving water and fish the edges of it. Moving water carries food and the edges provide a perfect place to ambush it.
• At docks, toss a spinnerbait parallel to the dock before stepping foot on it. The vibrations of you walking on the dock will spook any fish underneath it.
• When casting parallel to a dock, pause at the posts. It’s a good ambush spot.
• Docks lower to the water are better than docks higher up off the water. Higher docks don’t provide enough cover.
• If you see a boat with an attached motor tied to a dock, try fishing directly under the motor. The running of the motor can cause a deep spot at the bottom that fish like to sit in.
• Fish weed lines. On cloudy days, fish the inside of the weed line. On sunnier days, fish the outside.
• In current, fish the top side and bottom side of rocks/structure. The current isn’t as strong there and fish like to wait there to ambush any bait that might be carried by.
• Don’t be afraid to walk into the water. Wear an old pair of tennis shoes and shorts so you’re always ready to wade in a little ways.
• Wear polarzied sunglasses to help you see in the water. Look for structure.
• If you hear of a body of water that has a lot of winter kill, check it in a few years for bigger fish. The winter kill will reduce competition for food allowing the surviving fish to thrive.
• Add a colorful piece of yarn to a hook to add a little flare. Pink and chartreuse work well.
• Fish larger lakes in the fall. They are slower to cool down.
• Fish the North or Northwest area of a lake in the fall. They are the warmest part of the lake.

These are, of course, just a few of the tips that can help you catch fish.

I hope Ms. Smith doesn’t mind me providing these tips on-line. If you see a community ed class in the Twin Cities and are interested, I would encourage you to attend. If the instructor is Ms. Smith, I’m sure you’ll pick up another tip or two and you’ll definitely enjoy the stories she has to tell. She’s invited to the Governor’s Fishing Opener every year and she usually outfishes the governor and everyone else on the trip.

If you have any tips to add, please leave a comment. I’m sure novice and experts alike would love to hear them.

[Author's note: Photo above came from flheritage.com]

Related posts:

1. Walleye 101 – The Lindy Rig
2. Where to Find Fish on Windy Days
3. Tips for Taking Great Fish Photos
4. Fishing the Twin Cities